Old School Miniatures

So I have been going through my basement/crawlspace and looking for things to downsize and organize better. I decided to go through all my miniatures, which I know would take a long time. Not only because I have a bunch, and more than I realized. It was also because I would reminisce on the where and when I purchased them and used the older ones. I thought I would show you a bunch of them so that others could also gain that old time nostalgia. Enjoy!

I'll be using quite a few for Kings of War armies and the rest I will probably store and pair down on Ebay someday if a use does not pop up.

KOW - The Grey Empire and Regular Troops

Now that I want to play KOW more, I need a painted army. A big painted army...really big. One of the reasons why I prefer skirmish games if the small amount of models to paint so what is a hobbyist to do. The cheat with a good story. I will explain by telling a story.

Once upon a time, there was a kingdom of humans in the mountains that inhabited a wonderful valley. They were so wonderful that they were beset on all sides by its enemies until the peoples were more than decimated, they were counter-decimated (90% of population gone rather than the 10% used under the word decimate). The lands grew fallow, the mines unproductive, and the remaining populace sad and clinging to life. 

Then one day, deep in a mine, an underground complex was found. It appeared that the humans were not the first to live in the valley. Others once existed here who had grand technology and industry. Fundamental to this lost civilization was the ability to make magical simulacrums (clones) of its people and the current humans began to use this technique. To rejuvenate their lands they made copies of their best farmers, miners, and laborers. To defend them they made copies of their best soldiers. They had to choose their best as the copies were half as good as their originals. Within a generation the valley was again prosperous and defended using a workforce made from ancient arts and the every present grey mud found on the riverbanks of the valley. Now that the surrounding mountains are scourged, they look outwards for past enemies to vanquish and lands to claim. All to add to the Grey Empire.

So that was the concept that I came up with for my speed painted rank and file troops. I used GW Empire models I've had for a few years. My cavalry and heroes I will paint as per normal but will stick with the following scheme for my units and war machines.

Primed white they were painted Cryx Bane base, drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight, and lightly drybrushed Trollblood Highlight, and very lightly drybrushed Morrow White. The eye sockets were painted with Morrow White and a dab of Arcane Blue applied. The shields were painted Cryx Bane Highlight and the bronze parts painted Molten Bronze. The spear poles, bow, and musket stocks were painted Umbral Umber and drybrushed Bloodstone. The metal parts were painted Cold Steel.

The tufts on the spear ends were painted either Skorne Red and Khador Red Highlight, Ordic Olive and Wurm Green, or Cygnar Blue Base and Cygnar Blue Highlight. Then they were lightly drybrushed with Menoth White Highlight.

The Musket had some parts painted Molten Bronze. The arrows painted Bloodstone and drybrushed Rucksack Tan. The musket men's sash was painted Iridian Flesh and drybrushed Beast Hide. There was bags of gunpowder painted Menoth White Highlight.

The entire model was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade. The base painted Umbral Umber. Then Gale Force 9 Summer flock was applied and the eyes touched up with Arcane Blue. All in all great test models so I will continue with the theme for the rank-and-file troops.

Kings of War and Kings of War Historical Rulebooks

Kings of War is a ruleset for fantasy large scale battles created in 2010 with a second edition made in 2015. It uses a streamlined system that is elegant in its simplicity which allows ease of use for making strategic choices. I was on the verge of selling many of my Fantasy miniature armies when a friend convinced me to try the second edition ruleset out. I'm glad I did because although I may not play it as often as other miniature games I have, It will fill the niche of playing these large scale battles I have an itch for once in a while. The rules are also free here.

First, the units. You can have Infantry, Calvary, Large Infantry/Calvary, Monsters, War Engines, and Heroes. They also come in many sizes from solitary heroes/monsters/war engines to Large Infantry/Calvary 3-12 models) Calvary (5-20 models) to Legions of Infantry (10-60 models).  Some units do not have the full range of sizes for flavour or balance. The LOS and distance measuring is very similar to many mass combat games out there. Statistics of the units are Speed, Melee, Ranged, Defense, Attacks, Nerve, and Points. They also may have Special equipment or rules that help with the flavour of the unit or army. Every army is a little different for choices but so far in playing the game you need a little variety to handle what the opponent might throw at you. It also looks better on the tabletop. For most tournaments you can have 50%+1 models representing the size of unit you want. This is because many models have action poses or are larger than 25mm.

Secondly is the Turn: Move, Shoot, Melee. That's it. Each general does their entire turn then it is the other general's turn. After both general's have gone the turn number increases. At the end of turn six, roll a d6. On a 1-3 the game goes one more turn otherwise the

Moving is deciding if your units halt, change facing, advance, go back, sidestep, at the double, or charge. As this game utilizes positioning as an important strategic choice, you will have to think of how to move units with care on numerous occasions. That's because you gain a benefit from charging a unit on their side (double # attacks) or rear (triple). You might also prefer to screen other models like shooters, as you cannot shoot models and units that are engaged.

Shooting is fairly simple. Choose a unit, choose a target, and roll dice. There may be modifiers for terrain and such but the calculation for the final "to-hit" roll is quite simple. One you know the number of hits, then you have to roll those dice that hit to determine if you got past your target's defense. The resulting successes are the wounds on the enemy unit and are indicated by putting markers or dice up to the value of wounds behind the unit. You cannot shoot at a unit you are in melee with. Magic is also done in the shooting phase and there is only six spells: Fireball, Bane-chant, Wind Blast, Lightning Bolt, Heal, and Surge (for shambling models, typically undead or constructs). Now at the end of the phase, if at least one point of damage was scored against a unit they have to roll 2d6 and add the damage taken so far. If it is equal to or greater than their wavering limit, they are limited in their actions the next time they activate. If it is equal to or greater than their routing limit, they are removed from the game. A roll of 12 is an auto rout and a roll of 2 is a steady result.

Melee is the same as ranged combat. If you destroy a unit in melee, you can regroup by changing facing or moving ahead a d6 in inches, or move directly back d3 in inches. If the unit remains, you have to move an inch back. The defender must now test for nerve as per ranged rules. Also units that have suffered at least a point of damage are disordered and cannot use ranged attacks the next time they activate.

There are many army lists with various races and such: Dwarves, Elves, Nature, Man, Ogres, Abyss, Goblin, Orc, Undead...and more as more books come out. For making an army list this site is great plus it prints off the special rules for models and armies too. There are also magic items, each one able to be taken only once, that can make a good unit or model even better and use up those spare points as 2000 is the average game.

On the historical side, Mantic also came out with a book for playing historical armies. The rules are the same but instead of magic items they are veteran abilities instead which mimic many of the magic items. The army list generator is here.They have many periods of history listed with a core list of common forces. Each particular period and region will have special units and models only available to themselves.

Looking forward to playing this game in the future.

Guildball Kick Off! 2-Player Box

Steamforged's waited until their third year of Guildball being around before releasing a 2-Player starter set, called Kick Off! Its around $100 in Canadian funds.

The box comes with a miniature rulebook, game walkthrough of the first turn to explain the rules, and a Captain's Handbook that talks more about the teams and players in the box as well as other teams.

The first turn walkthrough is very well laid out and self explanatory for new players. It goes through all the rules to play your average game.

The team and player descriptions are good to flesh out the flavour of the Guildball world.

It also goes through players available to purchase and what they are known for.

The description of the other teams are enough to generate interest with an overview.

The pitch that comes in the box is hard cardboard for a three foot by three foot playing area.

It also can be flipped for a more urban setting!

The small cardboard case is very handy.

I gave the models a little bit of drybrushing to bring out the detail while still showing the pre-painted plastics underneath.

It has plenty of templates, influence counters, and play chits for each team.

Also comes with obstructions, conditions and momentum chits.

The cards are the same as in the regular game and two-sided.

I was given the box due to the fact I am a pundit (promoter) for the game in Victoria, BC and has already been used in some demos this year. A great set for those starting off, want the Masons/Brewers for another team, or want a pitch/rules/templates.

Prussian Empire - Pflicht Scoutships

The Pflicht Scoutship is a good workhorse for the Prussian Empire in the Dystopian Wars game. It can spot for larger craft, has a good forward Tesla coil, good broadsides, and can hit aerial craft better. It also has a bomb bay for surface targets. They are available in the Ariel Battle Group box or singly.

 I started by priming it black. Then a rough drybrush of a Cold Steel and Frostbite mix, then a drybrush of Trollblood Highlight. Then Cold Steel or Rhulic Bronze for the metal bits. Some dollarstore red was applied to the engines. Arcane Blue was used on the windows. The whole model was then washed with GW Nuln Oil. The flag was Morrow White, Skorne Red, and Thamar Black.

Prussian Empire - Jager Strike Airships

The Jager Strike Airships, for the Prussian Empire in Dystopian Wars, is an extremely fast ship with a 360 degree Tesla coil. It is also better at targeting Ariel aircraft. It can be bought singly or in the Ariel Battle Group box.

 I started by priming it black. Then a rough drybrush of a Cold Steel and Frostbite mix, then a drybrush of Trollblood Highlight. Then Cold Steel or Rhulic Bronze for the metal bits. Some dollarstore red was applied to the engines. Arcane Blue was used on the cockpit. The whole model was then washed with GW Nuln Oil.

Prussian Empire - Imperium Sky Fortress

The Prussian Empire Imperium Sky Fortress is an impressive model. It can carry six fighter SAWs, excellent forward Tesla coils, good Tesla broadsides and three bomb bays. It is available as a single model or in the Aerial Battle Group box from Spartan Games.

 I started by priming it black. Then a rough drybrush of a Cold Steel and Frostbite mix, then a drybrush of Trollblood Highlight. Then Cold Steel or Rhulic Bronze for the metal bits. The carrier deck was painted a dark dollarstore brown then drybrushed with a lighter brown. Some dollarstore red was applied to the engines. Arcane Blue was used on the windows. The whole model was then washed with GW Nuln Oil. The flag was Morrow White, Skorne Red, and Thamar Black.

I also have two, one from the box set and one on its own from somewhere.To keep them separated I painted different numbers on the deck and the wingtips of the planes either red or white.

Hodgepodge Effigy

The Hodgepodge Effigy can work with any Outcast crew or with Colodi, as it is a puppet. This is the 1e metal version but the 2e plastic version is available here.It can provide cover for nearby models and is a good source of soulstones for kill orientated crews.

I started primed white. The face was painted Khardic Flesh, Drybrushed Midlund Flesh, and lightly drybrushed Ryn Flesh. The clothes were painted Cryx Bane Base, drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight, and drybrushed Trollblood Highlight. The rose stems were painted Ionian Green, drybrushed Wurm Green, and lightly drybrushed Necrotite Green with a little highlighting of Nectorite Green mixed with Menoth White Highlight. The roses were painted Skorne Red, drybrushed Khador Red Base, Lightly drybrushed Khador Red Highlight and highlighted with Khador Red Highlight mixed with Menoth White Highlight.

 The Leather straps on its face was painted with Umbral Umber and lightly drybrushed with Beast Hide. The metal was painted Pig Iron and highlighted with Quicksilver. The shiny parts of the sword was painted Rhulic Gold and drybrushed Solid Gold. The rats on the bottom were painted Thamar Black, drybrushed Cryx Bane Base, and lightly drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight with Khador Red base used for the eyes. The hands were painted Beast Hide and drybrushed Rucksack Tan. The cards in its right hand were painted Menoth White Highlight, some scribbling with Thamar Black, and Skorne Red used for the trim.

The base is made with a Basius 2 Victoriana plate. It was painted with Dollarstore Black, rough drybrush of Sanguine Highlight, Drybvrushed Skorne Red, and lightly drybrushed Skorne Red mixed with Menoth White Highlight. The model was then washed with GW Agrax Earthshade. The rim of the base was painted Moldy Ochre.

Yamaziko

Yamaziko is the instructor for Misaki in the Ten Thunders faction. Its harder for her to target peons but easier for masters. She is nimble, can strip cards from the opponent with Master Tactician, and can sweep opponents for damage with the right trigger.

Primed black. Skin painted Khardic Flesh mixed with Mouldy Ochre, drybrushed with Khardic Flesh mixed with Midlund Flesh, lightly drybrushed with Ryn Flesh mixed with Moudly Ochre. Clothes were painted Cryx Bane Base, drybrushed Coal Black, and lightly drybrushed Coal Black mixed with Menoth White Highlight. Hair painted Thamar Black, drybrushed Cryx Bane Base, and drybrushed with Cryx Bane Highlight. Boots painted Iridian Flesh and drybrushed Rucksack Tan.

 Metal painted Cold Steel and highlighted with Quicksilver. Highlights were done with Molten Bronze. Lamp was done with Umbral Umber and drybrushed Hammerfall Khaki. The lighting effects painted with Sulfur Yellow and highlighted with Heartsfire.The staff was painted Thamar Black and drybrushed Coal Black.

The base came with the model when I bought it off a fellow, unknown manufacturer. The stone parts were painted Dollarstore Black, drybrushed heavily Cryx Bane Base, drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight, and lightly drybrushed with a mix of Cryx Bane Highlight and Morrow White. The raised part was painted with Skorne Red, drybrushed Khador Red Base, and lightly drybrushed with Khador Red Highlight. The model and base were washed with GW Agrax Earthshade. The outer ring was painted with Khador Red Highlight

Misaki

Misaki is the master for "The Thunder" crew. The model is great at melee, can charge out of melee, and can move enemy models away from her to free up charge lanes.

Primed black. Skin painted Khardic Flesh mixed with Mouldy Ochre, drybrushed with Khardic Flesh mixed with Midlund Flesh, lightly drybrushed with Ryn Flesh mixed with Moudly Ochre. Yellow parts painted with Ember Orange, drybrushed with Heartfire, and lightly drybrushed with Sulfur Yellow. Blue kick effect painted with Exile Blue, drybrushed with Cygnar Blue Highlight, lightly drybrushed with Meridius Blue, and highlighted with Arcane Blue mixed with Menoth White Highlight.

Greys painted with Cryx Bane Base and drybrushed with Cryx Bane Highlight. Leather parts painted with Iridian Flesh or Beast Hide and drybrushed with Rucksack Tan. Orange sash painted Khador Red Highlight and drybrushed with Ember Orange. Hair painted Thamar Black, drybrushed Coal Black mixed with Menoth White Highlight. Staff painted with Thamar Black and drybrushed with Coal Black. Metal parts painted with Cold Steel, drybrushed with Quicksilver and some parts highlighted with Molten Bronze. Tassels painted Skorne Red and drybrushed Khador Red Highlight, and lightly drybrushed Khador Red Highlight. 

The base is made from the Basius 3 Dojo plate painted dollarstore black. It was then heavily drybruhed Bloodtracker Brown, drybrushed Beast Hide, and lightly drybrushed Rucksack Tan. Both base and model was then washed with Seraphim Sepia. Faction colors of Mouldy Ochre and Khador Red Highlight were painted on the edge of the base.

Ototo

Ototo is a beatstick in the Malifaux Ten Thunders faction. He comes in "The Thunder" crew set. As a beatstick he is tough and lays down the damage especially with his upgrade to slow those around him and gain bonuses against slow models. He is also a Last Blossom so he can play in an Outcast themed Misaki crew as one of the four allowed.

Primed black. Skin painted Khardic Flesh mixed with Mouldy Ochre, drybrushed with Khardic Flesh mixed with Midlund Flesh, lightly drybrushed with Ryn Flesh mixed with Moudly Ochre. Yellow parts painted with Ember Orange, drybrushed with Heartfire, and lightly drybrushed with Sulfur Yellow. Blue smash effect painted with Exile Blue, drybrushed with Cygnar Blue Highlight, lightly drybrushed with Meridius Blue, and highlighted with Arcane Blue mixed with Menoth White Highlight.

Greys painted with Cryx Bane Base and drybrushed with Cryx Bane Highlight. Leather parts painted with Iridian Flesh and drybrushed with Rucksack Tan. Orange sash painted Khador Red Highlight and drybrushed with Ember Orange. Hair painted Thamar Black, drybrushed Coal Black mixed with Menoth White Highlight, and lightly drybrushed with Cryx Bane Highlight. Stick painted with Bloodstone and drybrushed with Beast Hide. Metal parts painted with Cold Steel, drybrushed with Quicksilver and some parts highlighted with Molten Bronze. Tassels painted Skorne Red and drybrushed Khador Red Highlight, and lightly drybrushed Khador Red Highlight. 


Unknown where base came from as I bought the model assembled, primed and based. It was painted Cryx Bane Base, drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight, and lightly drybrushed Cryx Bane Highlight mixed with Morrow White. Broken rubble part painted Battlefield Brown, drybrushed Bloodstone, and lightly drybrushed Rucksack Tan. The entire model was washed with GW Agrax Earthshade and the outer base painted with Ember Orange