Alexia, Mistress of the Witchfire is a cavalry riding, magic wielding lady who gets stronger the more
death she is around. She gets soul tokens when around dying models and can
use the soul tokens to boost attack or damage rolls. She can also make Thrall warriors.She can only have a maximum of three soul tokens on her though.
I
started with a prime coat of Krylon white then a wash of GW Badab
Black. That way the details would show up. Then P3 Thamar Black was
applied to the cloak and horse, then they were drybrushed P3 Coal Black. Then a lighter
drybrush was done with P3 Greatcoat Grey. I used P3 Pig Iron on the
armour and sword but it was too much so I applied a GW Badab Black wash.
Then it was a light drybrush of P3 Cold Steel.
P3
Battlefield Brown was applied to the leather parts with a light drybrush
of P3 Bootstrap Leather. The skirt and clothes were painted with P3
Skorne Red and drybrushed with P3 Khador Red Base and lightly drybrushed
with P3 Khador Red Highlight.
The face was painted with P3 Midlund Flesh and drybrushed with P3 Ryn
Flesh. The horse was given a little undead flesh treatment in the mouth and flank with P3 Khardic Flesh drybrushed on then lightly drybrushed with P3 Midlund Flesh, then a little Ryn Flesh with a GW Gryphon Sepia wash. Then details of the
buckles and sword were painted with P3 Rhulic Gold.
I
then attempted some object source lighting for the sword runes. It is a
magically possessed sword after all. I started with a drybrush of P3
Wurm Green on and around the sword. Then the whole model was washed with
GW Devlan Mud. Then the area around the sword was lightly drybrushed
with Necrotite Green then again with a 50/50 mix of Necrotite Green and
Menoth White Highlight.
The base graves are from an HO scale train gravestone set I purchased over a decade ago. The mounds in front of the graves are done with air drying clay. The hand is a GW Zombie hand. They were painted in dark to light colours of grey, brown and flesh with appropriate devlan mud and gryphon Sepia washes.
I can't use her in the Constance Blaze force I'm currently playing but she will be all ready for my next caster.
Tabletop miniatures, role-playing games, boardgames, military history and gaming in Victoria B.C. Canada
Monday, September 29, 2014
Sunday, September 28, 2014
Alexia Ciannor's Risen - The Lady Herself
I started with a prime coat of Krylon white then a wash of GW Badab Black. That way the details would show up. Then P3 Thamar Black was applied to the cloak and drybrushed P3 Coal Black. Then a lighter drybrush was done with P3 Greatcoat Grey. I used P3 Pig Iron on the armour and sword but it was too much so I applied a GW Badab Black wash. Then it was a light drybrush of P3 Cold Steel.
P3 Battlefield Brown was applied to the leather parts with a light drybrush of P3 Bootstrap Leather. The skirt and clothes were painted with P3 Skorne Red and drybrushed with P3 Khador Red Base and lightly drybrushed with P3 Khador Red Highlight.
The face was painted with P3 Midlund Flesh and drybrushed with P3 Ryn Flesh. The pile of skulls she is standing on was painted with P3 Menoth White Highlight and washed with GW Gryphon Sepia. Then details of the buckles and sword were painted with P3 Rhulic Gold.
I then attempted some object source lighting for the sword runes. It is a magically possessed sword after all. I started with a drybrush of P3 Wurm Green on and around the sword. Then the whole model was washed with GW Devlan Mud. Then the area around the sword was lightly drybrushed with Necrotite Green then again with a 50/50 mix of Necrotite Green and Menoth White Highlight.
I can't use her in the Constance Blaze force I'm currently playing but she will be all ready for my next caster.
Sunday, September 21, 2014
Alexia Ciannor's Risen - Thrall Warrior
Next with the Warmachine Mercenaries Alexia Ciannor's Risen are the Thrall Warrior sculpts. They are both for the regular Alexia and especially for the mounted Alexia solo.
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then I used P3 Cold Steel on the armour with a drybrush of GW Tin Bitz. I went over this later with P3 Rhulic Gold because it made the model pop more. Then the skirt was done with P3 Thornwood Green, drybrushed with P3 Battledress Green and then lightly drybrushed with a 5 to three ratio of Battledress Green and Morrow White. The gem on the sword was painted with P3 Wurm Green and lightly stroked with Menoth White Highlight. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
Next is Alexia herself!
Friday, September 19, 2014
Alexia Ciannor's Risen - Khador Sculpts
Next with the Warmachine Mercenaries Alexia Ciannor's Risen are the Khador scuplts. They were all one piece and easy to paint.
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then I used P3 Bastion Grey with a drybrush of P3 Cryx Bane Hightlight and lighter drybrush of Trollblood Highlight on the clothes and fuzzy hat. Then P3 Gun Corps Brown and drybrushed P3 Rucksack Tan on the boots and belt. The armoured pads were done with P3 Khador Red Base and drybrushed with P3 Khador Red Base Highlight. Then P3 Rhulic Gold was used on the buckle and Khador symbols. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
Next is Thralls and Alexia herself!
Sunday, September 14, 2014
Alexia Ciannor's Risen - Cygnar Sculpts
Next with the Warmachine Mercenaries Alexia Ciannor's Risen are the Cygnarian scuplts. They were all one piece and easy to paint.
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then I used P3 Rhulic Gold on the helmet, kneepad and grieves. Then P3 Gun Corps Brown and drybrushed P3 Rucksack Tan on the skirt. The pads were done with P3 Cygnar Base Blue and drybrushed with P3 Cygnar Blue Highlight. Then P3 Rucjksack Tan and drybrushed P3 Hammerfall for the other leather parts. The boots were done with P3 Gun Corps Brown and drybrushed with P3 Bootstrap Leather. The grenade was lightly done in P3 Traitor Green. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
Next is Khador, Thralls and Alexia herself!
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then I used P3 Rhulic Gold on the helmet, kneepad and grieves. Then P3 Gun Corps Brown and drybrushed P3 Rucksack Tan on the skirt. The pads were done with P3 Cygnar Base Blue and drybrushed with P3 Cygnar Blue Highlight. Then P3 Rucjksack Tan and drybrushed P3 Hammerfall for the other leather parts. The boots were done with P3 Gun Corps Brown and drybrushed with P3 Bootstrap Leather. The grenade was lightly done in P3 Traitor Green. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
Next is Khador, Thralls and Alexia herself!
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Alexia Ciannor's Risen - Mercenary Sculpts
After finishing the Dystopian Wars terrain at work during lunch hours, I was very satisfied at the progress made. Next I tackled the Warmachine Mercenaries Alexia Ciannor's Risen. Above are the mercenary sculpted risen. They were all one piece and easy to paint.
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then P3 Bootstrap Leather and drybrushed P3 Rucksack Tan on the leather parts, using more tan on the straps. The pads and clothes were done with P3 Traitor Green then drybrushed with P3 Wurm Green. Finally some P3 Pig Iron and P3 Rhulic Gold was applied to the various metal bits. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
First I primed them with Krylon Black flat. Then a rough brush with P3 Hammerfall Khaki and drybrushed with P3 Menoth White Highlight. Then P3 Bootstrap Leather and drybrushed P3 Rucksack Tan on the leather parts, using more tan on the straps. The pads and clothes were done with P3 Traitor Green then drybrushed with P3 Wurm Green. Finally some P3 Pig Iron and P3 Rhulic Gold was applied to the various metal bits. Then the bone parts of the model was washed with GW Gryphon Sepia while the rest of the model was done in P3 Devlan Mud then the whole model was done in Devlan Mud to make it more dark. P3 Bootstrap Leather was used for the arc in two coats.
Sunday, September 7, 2014
Mutants and Masterminds - Gamemaster's Guide, GM's Kit and Powers book
For those who play role-playing games, of the super-hero variety, i'd like to recommend three products for the Mutants and Masterminds family of products.
A highly recommended product when playing any super-hero RPG (or even any heroic style game) is Green Ronin's Gamemaster's Guide. It covers the styles of different eras of comic book history, archtypes of villains and ways to alter them, plots and tropes and alternative rules. At the end are sample lairs. It is extremely informative and should be a must buy when playing just about any super-hero or heroic role playing game.
Another excellent product from Green Ronin is the GM's Kit. The screen is tough and at a lower height than other screens. The random hero/villain generator is tres-cool.
Finally is the Power Profiles book. Everything you ever wanted to showcase with different power descriptors or types is included here with several hints and tips between chapters. This is a great buy for assisting players and the gamemaster in designing characters in the Mutants and Masterminds game system.
A highly recommended product when playing any super-hero RPG (or even any heroic style game) is Green Ronin's Gamemaster's Guide. It covers the styles of different eras of comic book history, archtypes of villains and ways to alter them, plots and tropes and alternative rules. At the end are sample lairs. It is extremely informative and should be a must buy when playing just about any super-hero or heroic role playing game.
Another excellent product from Green Ronin is the GM's Kit. The screen is tough and at a lower height than other screens. The random hero/villain generator is tres-cool.
Finally is the Power Profiles book. Everything you ever wanted to showcase with different power descriptors or types is included here with several hints and tips between chapters. This is a great buy for assisting players and the gamemaster in designing characters in the Mutants and Masterminds game system.
Friday, September 5, 2014
Guildball Pitch
I've been using a three by three felt mat of a beige colour for my Guildball games. No more. Here is how I made a soccer field inspired pitch.
For this project I used: Dark Green Felt at least three by three feet in size, fabric pencil, craftsman ruler (three feet in length) and yellow fabric paint. For the "Icy Sponge" sidelines I used lighter green felt.
First I took my uber large dark green felt and put it on a flat surface.
Then I used a fabric pencil and measured a three by three area.
Then I drew in multiple lines and circles. The two end circles are centred and the edge in by six inches, and is for the goals. The two lines are ten inches in, which is the limit of the deployment zone. The centre line is exactly that plus I made the circle in the middle to make it more soccer-like.
I also had an idea for "Icy Sponge" sidelines. These can be used to keep track of healing over the turns players are out of action. I started with the felt and measured a rectangle segmented into boxes.
Then I drew in the numbers and letters.
Next came the fabric paint. This is cheap dollar store paint.
After the first application I used old newspaper to pat the excess off. Ensure you use a new area of the newspaper each time you pat! Otherwise you'll get a felt painting rather than a pitch.
This is the first application. A little light. I waited a few days for it to dry before reapplicating it.
This is after two applications.
The darker yellow lines really stand out!
Same for the sidelines.
Time to play ball!
For this project I used: Dark Green Felt at least three by three feet in size, fabric pencil, craftsman ruler (three feet in length) and yellow fabric paint. For the "Icy Sponge" sidelines I used lighter green felt.
First I took my uber large dark green felt and put it on a flat surface.
Then I used a fabric pencil and measured a three by three area.
Then I drew in multiple lines and circles. The two end circles are centred and the edge in by six inches, and is for the goals. The two lines are ten inches in, which is the limit of the deployment zone. The centre line is exactly that plus I made the circle in the middle to make it more soccer-like.
I also had an idea for "Icy Sponge" sidelines. These can be used to keep track of healing over the turns players are out of action. I started with the felt and measured a rectangle segmented into boxes.
Then I drew in the numbers and letters.
Next came the fabric paint. This is cheap dollar store paint.
After the first application I used old newspaper to pat the excess off. Ensure you use a new area of the newspaper each time you pat! Otherwise you'll get a felt painting rather than a pitch.
This is the first application. A little light. I waited a few days for it to dry before reapplicating it.
This is after two applications.
The darker yellow lines really stand out!
Same for the sidelines.
Time to play ball!
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